Rush Hour 4

We'd first like to apologize for the delay in posting this blog. Due to the strict censorship imposed by the Chinese government, we were not able to access the blogger website while in the land of China.  

We arrived in Hong Kong at 6am after taking the red eye out of Kathmandu. Going from Kathmandu to Hong Kong was like going to another world. While we loved the cultural experience in Nepal, it was comforting to be back in civilization. 

We checked in at our hostel and once again made the mistake of booking a double room (one big bed) instead of a twin room (two beds).  I think that the double vs twin descriptor is very confusing. It's almost as confusing as the looks we get from the receptionists who cannot decide if we're a gay couple or two idiots that booked the wrong type of room.  After sorting out the confusion and switching to two beds in one of the dorm rooms we were ready to see Hong Kong. The weather was not cooperating with us, and Hong Kong is a very modern city not really renowned for its culture so we could only think of one possible thing to do, gamble.

Gambling is a huge part of Chinese culture and their addiction to baccarat is more powerful than Lindsey Lohan's addiction to drugs and alcohol. In order to see these people in action, and maybe dance with lady luck ourselves, we headed to China's version of Las Vegas: Macau.

A short one hour ferry ride from Hong Kong, Macau is a gambling Mecca. Giant Las Vegas casino companies such as the Venetian, the Wynn, the Sands, and the MGM Grand have established themselves in Macau in order to capitalize on China's love for gambling. While Macau seemed to be a more wholesome and tamer version of Vegas it actually surpasses Vegas and takes in the most gambling revenue in the world.  We checked out the Venetian, and the Hardrock before we settled at the Sands and decided it was time to test our luck. The odds were ever in our favor on the roulette wheel and I made out up 1000 Hong Kong Dollars, which is roughly $140 US (this would be put to good use later).

Back in Hong Kong we headed to Tim Ho Wan for dinner. Known for its incredible dim sum, Tim Ho Wan might be the only Michelin Star rated restaurant in the world where two people can order a feast for only $20 USD. The pork and shrimp dumplings, lemon spring rolls, and various other dishes, the contents of which were unclear to us, were incredible. But the best by far were these little bread type pastries packed with barbecue pork. These delectable morsels are a must have for anyone visiting Hong Kong (especially if you're on a budget).

The next morning the weather had cleared up, and so had Alex's illness. If you did not catch our last blog post, Alex fell victim to food poisoning on our last day in Kathmandu. With his stomach settled , empty (I probably ate $18 worth of our $20 dinner), and finally ready to consume food again, we knew the only thing that could get him back on track was a heaping plate of steak frites. The hearty meal was just what the doctor ordered and we were ready for a long day of sightseeing.

We kicked off our tour of Hong Kong with a ride up the Victoria Tram to Victoria's peak in order to get a birdseye view of the city.  Here we saw what a sprawling metropolis Hong Kong is.  

Even at this vantage point we were still below some of the rooftops of the city's biggest skyscrapers. Once sufficiently satisfied, we headed back down the mountain in order to take the star ferry across the harbor to Kowloon. 

One of the main attractions in Hong Kong is the history museum which lies on this side of the harbor. Unfortunately for us the museum is closed on Tuesdays, so instead we decided to take a walk along the harbor. This gave us another great vantage point of the Hong Kong skyline. We strolled along the "Avenue of the Stars" while taking in the beautiful day. It was here that we payed homage to legendary actors such as Bruce Lee and Jackie Chan.

Even though our hands were much bigger than many of the imprints left in the cement by these Chinese film stars, it was interesting to learn about the Chinese film industrys history. That type of mental exhaustion really took a lot out of us so we had to stop at a bar along the harbor and grab a beer in the fresh air.

As the sun started to set I could feel the 1000 Hong Kong Dollars burning a hole in my pocket. It would only be fair to Hong Kong to reinvest this money into the local economy. What better way to do that than to head to the tallest bar in the world? On the 118th floor of the international commerce center lies the Ritz Carlton's Ozone bar. After two ear popping elevator rides we took our jeans and t-shirts into a sea of Armani suits. Despite our attire we still managed to get a fantastic seat along the floor to ceiling windows overlooking the harbor. From here we did our best to nurse a few pricey drinks so that we could stay long enough to watch the sunset and then the Symphony of Lights, Hong Kong's nightly light show put on by a number of buildings along the harbor. We had an incredible view of the sunset as well as the show, while also getting a great taste of Hong Kongs high society. 

Unfortunately staying at Ozone any longer would mean not having enough money to get to the airport in the morning, so we headed to the night market on Temple Street. Full of little stands and hustlers it was a great place to people watch as well as to buy something at a bargain. Alex was able to pick up a great pair of sunglasses.

When the market lost its luster we took the ferry back across the harbor to the Lan Kwai Fong district. This square block, run by expats, is Hong Kongs premiere nightlife destination. Packed with numerous bars and clubs, it was even lively on a Tuesday night. We spent the next few hours enjoying the Hong Kong nightlife and then headed to the airport early the next morning for our flight to Beijing feeling that we did a great job seeing all Hong Kong had to offer in two short days.

The Ever Elusive Everest

When one thinks of Nepal images of brave climbers, sherpas, and the monster peak that is Everest come to mind. We too expected to be thrown right into Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air as we landed in Kathmandu with plans of hiking to Nagarkot - a renowned location from which to view the mighty Himalayas. We arrived in Kathmandu late at night and planned to wake up early and plan our trekking excursion through our hotel. Our hotel, the Ganesh Himal, was on the more expensive side for Nepal, and by expensive I mean it cost Brian and I a staggering $15 per night for some of the nicer accommodations we've had thus far. GOT TO LOVE THAT EXCHANGE RATE!

We didn't realize just how far the US dollar went until the next day when we not only got an excellent breakfast for about 2 dollars, but we also booked a guided hike to Nagarkot, a room at the hotel with the best views of the Himalayas, and a private driver to and from our hiking entry and exit points. Two days with all meals included (even the meals for the guide) for about $150. 

After booking our trek to Nagarkot we walked around Kathmandu while waiting for our guide and driver to arrive. Kathmandu is far from modern and definitely the most out there we have been thus far. Face masks would have been nice walking around so as to not inhale the dust from the dirt cloud around the city. Most all of the buildings were falling apart and shoddy electrical work left messes of wires hanging down into the streets. Needless to say, drinking the water was out of the question. Even our prestigious Hotel Ganesh Himal did not have power 24 hours a day, so the only time a hot shower or an outlet was available was in the morning or evening. 

Unlike everywhere else in the world, Kathmandu does not have McDonald's, Burger King, or any other big global brands. What it does have is the widest selection of North Face knock-offs in existence.  I swear they don't even care about what they stick the North Face logo on. If you can wear it, they can make it North Face for you. 

Eventually the time came to meet our guide at the hotel. We were hoping for an old back-country sherpa who knew no English and could communicate with animals, but after meeting Kiran - our young Nepalese guide - we soon realized that sherpas probably weren't like that. Kiran immediately took a liking to Brian upon meeting him, "Oh. Brian! Like Bryan Adams! Summer of '69!" We knew then that he definitely could not talk to animals. 

Soon we were off driving through remote villages on rough dirt roads until we reached the point where the car could go no further. We got out and began our 4 hour trek to Nagarkot. Kiran talked to us about  Nepali mountain ranges, culture, and his religion, Hinduism. 

After we had exhausted the conversation, Kiran - who had just recounted his many treks up Everest - began to ask us repeatedly if we needed a break. It appeared that the conversation was not the only thing that was exhausted. He played it off as though he was really concerned for our well being, but his labored breathing was a dead give-away. We knew he was really hurting when he started to play the "Mac-arena" song on his phone to motivate himself. Brian and I were trying to teach him the "Mac-arena" dance but he was on the verge of collapse. So not only could he not communicate with animals, but he was full of shit too. Hiked Everest my ass.

Despite his exaggerated abilities, Kiran did get us to Nagarkot in one piece. It was quite a trek through the mountains and valleys of Nepal. We passed villagers herding goats and watched farmers tow their land on the mountain sides. We finally reached Nagarkot and saw that our hotel was on the highest peak which undoubtedly would have the best view of what we came to Nepal to see: the Himalayas, specifically Mount Everest. A banner on the wall indicated the spectacle we were to see from our hotel:

We climbed to our hotel and sat on the terrace overlooking the valley. We ordered some food and two Everest Beers and prepared for the view of a lifetime. Sometimes though, things just don't work out. This was one of those things. Heavy clouds blocked our view on through the night and even the next morning, so the closest we ever got to seeing Everest was on the label of our beer.  Instead this was the view we were afforded:

We still had the exchange rate working for us though. The food and service at the hotel as excellent and the view was still great even without the Himalayas in it. What really made the trip to Nepal worth it, though, was the hike down from Nagarkot the next day when Kiran took us off of the road and cut through the mountain farms. He had an easier time going downhill. As we weaved in and out of small adobe homes we encountered small children that would follow us along for a while.

Eventually Kiran stopped and turned as if he'd nearly forgotten something, "Oh. My sister in-law lives there." For some reason he didn't think we'd be interested in going in. "Yes," we told him. Kiran, we did not care about the brick factory or the stupid satellite TV tower you pointed out to us and of course we wanted to go in and get an authentic taste for the culture. 

We entered the barn-like house, barely fitting through the door, and climbed up the steep ladder-like staircase to the second floor being careful not to disturb the cows and chickens.

We were greeted by his sister in-law, her daughter, and her husband. The husband, who had been asleep, dressed himself and sat with us while the sister went into the kitchen. Brian and I could not really communicate with them but we knew that she was preparing us drinks and maybe even food. In my youth I saw the movie "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom" during which Indiana chastises the female protagonist for not wanting to accept food from the natives of an Indian village because her refusal would offend them. "This was it," I thought. I knew, and Brian knew, that - despite whatever flesh-eating parasites and the painful bowel-movements they might induce - we would have to eat and drink whatever they gave us so as to not offend our generous hosts. It was at this moment that the sister pulled out a 2-liter bottle of Mountain Dew and poured us a glass. Not exactly what we were expecting. She also made us a hard-boiled egg and some strange popcorn type food that we ate without question.

After we thanked them, the husband walked us to the nearest village where we met our driver. We made one more stop in the city of Bhaktapur before heading to Kathmandu. This was a historical and religious city filled with Hindu temples and ancient stone and wood-work. This was also where Kiran lived so after he toured us around we left him and the driver took us back to Kathmandu. 

The next day, before our red-eye flight, Brian went shopping for some "North Face" gear and I spent the afternoon with my head buried in the toilet. Must have been the strange popcorn type food.

We are now in Hong Kong and my upset stomach is about to get drowned in dim sum whether it likes it or not.

Blackhawk Drown on Khaosan Road

As we have become accustomed to on this trip, our taxi driver from the airport was for some reason not able to drop us off at our hostel.  Like all of the other times this has happened to us, we began the struggle with foreign street signs and directions from people speaking broken English.  But unlike all of the other times, we had to do all of this in the middle of a warzone.

The Sunday we arrived in Bangkok was during the height of Songkran, the celebration of the Thai New Year.  It is tradition to spray people with water to cool off from the April heat and to rub white powder on their faces which originated from Monks who used it to give blessings.  Khaosan Road, the location of our hostel, took some liberty in the way this tradition is celebrated. The street was closed off to all vehicles, and full of people armed with water guns and buckets of water. 

Being big, white, and clearly not Thai, we instantly became Khaosan Road’s number 1 target when we stepped out of the taxi.  As we made our way through the blasting music and throngs people, our clothes and bags were instantly soaked through.  Since we forgot to pack our supersoakers at the beginning of the trip, we were left with no defense; forced to accept the onslaught of water and white powder that pursued.  Had we not been carrying all of our clothes, wallets, cell phones, passports, and everything else that is needed for our survival, it probably would have been a more enjoyable welcoming.  With each bucket of water splashed in our face, we could only think we will have our revenge.

Eventually the Rikka Inn appeared and we quickly threw our bags and valuables in the room before heading down to the street.  We hit the armory closest to the Rikka, and purchased two of Bangkok’s finest water guns (the price of which we bargained down 50 Baht, effectively saving us each 80 cents.  We’re great negotiators!).  After the armory, we knew the fierce combat would dehydrate us so we headed to the canteen.  We needed to stock up on a sufficient amount of beer from one of the hundreds of coolers that lined the streets.  Finally, we were locked and loaded and ready to wreak havoc. 

It did not matter if it was a mother, grandmother, or infant; no one was off limits.  

 Anyone who was armed was fair game.  Shoot first, ask questions later.  Our tactical maneuvers were unparalleled and betrayal of “allies” we made was rampant.  Despite our disadvantage weapon wise, we were able to hold our own.  In the end, everyone ends up soaking wet and has a great time.  They engage in the occaisional waterfight, take in the music, and in enjoy the various drinks being sold all over the road.  

  One vendor even dared to “ice” us.  She didn’t know who she was messing with, and felt the full wrath of our supersoakers after we had finished the drinks.  After a few rounds up and down the street, we were exhausted from our 3:30 AM flight from Boracay and the intense battles, so we retreated to our room to take a short nap.

When we reemerged onto Khaosan Road, day had turned to night.  That was not the only change.  Somehow the music was blasting louder, and the water and beer were flowing stronger.  The street was absolutely packed and had turned into Bangkok’s biggest party.  DJ’s were blasting house music and putting on light shows.  Bars were advertising not checking ID cards.   

People were climbing onto anything they could, tables, dumpsters, streetlights, in order to dance to the music and fully enjoy Songkran.  And of course, there was water everywhere.  There was so much that at one break in the action we looked up and saw that we had not even realized that it was pouring rain on us.  I think it was at this point when Alex said “I had to wait until I was 22 years old to have the best water gun fight in my life.”  I couldn’t agree more.  It was quite the spectacle and we fully enjoyed sharing in this celebration of the Thai New Year.  Even as the watergun aspect of the night was dying down, you never know when an ambush could strike:

The next morning we decided to get out of Bangkok and head to the jungle for a day or two, so we set out for Kanchanaburi.  On our quest to get there, we were told by numerous people that the bus station was atleast 45 km away, and that all the buses were booked, so the only option would be a private minivan with them for around $2,000 Baht.  Not believing these very trustworthy looking people, we decided to figure it out for ourselves.  After taking a 10-minute metered cab ride to the bus station, and buying a 110 Baht bus ticket, we were on our way to Kanchanaburi.  It was always satisfying to reject and circumvent the countless people trying to screw you over.

Kanchanaburi is home to the Bridge On the River Kwai, which was brought to fame by the Academy Award best picture winning movie bearing the same name.  It portrays the Japanese treatment of British POWs during WWII who were forced to build the Death Railway that helped connect Japan to Burma and India.   

But the main reason for our stay in Kanchanaburi was that it is the closest city to Tiger Temple.  Tiger Temple is run by monks and was founded as a forest temple and sanctuary for wild animals.  While waiting on line to enter “Tiger Canyon”, thoughts of Sigfried and Roy danced through my head.  I only hoped to be spared from having a similar fate.  Lucky for us, we were able to avoid the grim reaper’s clutches and the tigers remained tame.   

It was still a little nerve-wracking being so close to such a big and powerful creature that could literally rip my face off in one swift move if it felt so inclined, but it was definitely an amazing experience.   

We decided to spend the following day in Kanchanaburi and head back to Bangkok at night.  Through our hostel ,we booked a full day tour with various activities.   

First we went to Erawan National Park and hiked through the jungle for three hours.  The Erawan waterfall has seven different falls and pools placed a few hundred meters apart throughout this park.   We spent half the time hiking, and half the time swimming enjoying these little jungle oases.  After the jungle, we were given a delicious pad thai lunch and then headed to an elephant camp.  Here we got to experience an elephant ride that took us down stairs, through the jungle, and even into the River Kwai.   

Upon reaching the river, we disembarked the elephants and boarded a few bamboo rafts that we used to float down the river.  Finally, the tour ended with us taking a ride on the Death Railway and seeing the famous Bridge Over the River Kwai.  It was quite the busy day, and we were ready to bus back from the jungle and return to the city.

Since we had no time to leave Khaosan Road on our arrival day, we took advantage of our final day by seeing the city of Bangkok.  Being our own tourguides, we navigated the streets and viewed the 45m standing Buddha. 

 Following this and a short break for lunch, we made our way to the Royal Palace.  We were forced to borrow pants in order to be granted entry because shorts were not allowed, but it was well worth it.  The Thai architecture was absolutely incredible.  It had almost an other worldly vibe to it, and with our shoes off we both felt the spiritual power of Buddha.  It was here that our celebrity status from the Philippines continued.  

 After we asked a random person to take a picture us in front of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, that same person asked us if him and his friends could have their picture taken with us.  This set off a firestorm as other groups saw this going on, and wanted their pictures taken with the strange white men.  It’s crazy to think about how many living rooms across Asia are going to contain pictures with Alex and I in them.

Following our cultural expedition, we started off the night with a relaxing Thai foot massage at a parlor set up right on Khaosan Road.  It was great people watching and a great way to enjoy a beer.  After the massage, we got the incredibly good pad thai for the 5^th time and then spent the next few hours enjoying the Bangkok nightlife.  Thailand was a great stopped and we were lucky to time it up with Songkran.  We’re currently sitting on the plane at the Hazrat Shahjalal Airport in Dhaka, Bangladesh with a great view of pollution and the Air Malaysia plane next to us.  Needless to say we are very excited for it to take off and take us to Kathmandu.  Everest here we come.

For Every Band, There's a Better Filipino Cover Band

After spending almost the whole day in the Tokyo airport, wewere relieved to spend the night in Manila before leaving early the nextmorning to our island destination of Boracay, Philippines. We were supposed tostay in a hostel called Happy Coconuts in Manila, and as we departed theairport in our taxi cab it still seemed that this would be our fate. Then, thetaxi driver stopped in the middle of the street and jumped out of the cabwithout a word to talk to a pedestrian. To our relief, he returned a fewminutes later, but after he repeated this process several time it becameobvious that he had no idea where the hostel was. He drove deeper into theslums and began talking to every vagabond we passed. We were now in the part oftown where the taxi’s main obstacles in traffic were bicycles, children playinghopscotch, and small farm animals. As it was 11pm we began to worry a little,but the alarms really started to go off when the cab driver handed Brian hisphone. On the other line was his manager saying, “The cab driver does not knowwhere you are. Don’t worry, your safety is our number one concern.” The news ofour impending mugging and abduction nearly brought on a panic attack. Ourworries were not abated as the cab driver insisted on talking to every grimyinhabitant of this sketchy area, making us a clear target.

Finally, it was discovered that the first address we gavehim was not correct and so we got the “correct” address and sped out of theManila slums.

When we arrived at the new address we searched and searched forthe hostel. We were in the correct place and it was right in front of our nosesbut we just couldn’t see it. That’s when we saw the sign “Happy CoconutsInsurance.” It was now midnight and our cab driver informed us that the tilefloor of the airport was a very cool, comfortable place to sleep, so that’swhere we spent our first night in the Philippines.

We made it to Boracay early the next morning and after tworides on a motorized tricycle and a ferry we found ourselves at a small beachresort on Whitebeach, Boracay. Whitebeach was a unique area unlike any eitherof us have visited. There was no traditional boardwalk, but rather the hotels,restaurants, bars, vendors and dive shops were located right on the white,flour-like sand beach. The best part of the day on Whitebeach was right aroundsunset. At the end of each day we found ourselves at Charlh’s Bar enjoying $1 beers and watching the sun go down in a fantastic display ofvibrant reds, oranges and yellows.

To add to the atmosphere there was alwayslive music – as there was at most all of the beach bars – and they only playedpopular western classics. I am not really into the new techno thing so forthese bands to play U2, Third Eye Blind and Tracy Chapman it was as if I hadswitched my iPod into Filipino mode. The live bands were very talented and attimes we found ourselves looking very closely to make sure the singers weren’tlip-syncing. Indeed they were not and they played on through the night usuallywith their guitars in one hand and a beer in the other. After enjoying livemusic we typically walked until we found a suitable place to eat right on thebeach. This was a lifestyle I could get used to.

Now to shed some light on specific events. Our first nightat Charlh’s Bar our waitress approached us saying that another table wanted totake pictures with us. We had realized earlier in the day that we were the onlywhite people around but did not think it would be a big deal until a Filipinoman started to take pictures of us eating breakfast. This time, though, it wasdifferent, specifically for Brian. When we approached the other table it becameclear that one girl had the hots for him. When we posed for our picture I assumeda fairly normal pose with one girl while the other girl cozied right up intoBrian’s personal space. At that moment I thought Brian had found his future wife but alas we returned to our table and resumed watching the sunsetand taking more pictures with Filipino strangers. We’re hoping for morecelebrity status at upcoming destinations.

Another noteworthy event was our boat trip that we took witha man named Rudy who approached us on the beach. He told us that he would takeus out for 4 hours, we would do some fishing, go to another beach, and we woulddo some snorkeling. This sounded like a great deal so after some bargaining wetook him up on his offer. Rudy decided to bring his wife along on the trip aswell, saying that he had 8 children and he and his wife never get any time tothemselves. “How nice,” we thought. So we started out fishing off of Rudy’ssmall boat with hand-lines and while the first mate pulled up fish after fish,we came up with bare hooks every time. After catching about 10 fish, Rudydecided he had enough for dinner and we moved on to the beach. Puka Beach, itwas called.

It was a perfect beach and we enjoyed a nice swim and some sunbathing. Rudy and his wife also enjoyed the beach with us. It was around thistime that we got the feeling Rudy was using us to go on a little honeymoon.This became evident when we went snorkeling in some rough water and Rudydecided it was OK to throw out his hand-line into the schools of fish we weresnorkeling amongst. This became even more evident when, instead of describingthe parts of the island we were passing, Rudy insisted on making out with histoothless wife. Despite our inattentive tour guide, it was hard to complainwhen boating around one of the most beautiful islands in the world. Boracay wasa sight to see, whether it was lush palm trees, beautiful beaches, or the coralreefs that were teeming with life.

On our last night in Boracay we went all out on an elaboratedinner buffet that we had starved all day for so that we could afford it.

Afterour ritual sunset beer at Charlh’s we walked down to the buffet (which wecalled the Warren Buffet) and loaded up on rice, sweet and sour pork, steak,potatoes, green things, red things, things that looked like vegetables, and thingsthat might not have even been food. Totally replete, with our stomachs about toburst, we retired for a good night’s sleep.

We are now en route to Thailand and fortunately some idiotat the check-in counter accidentally put us in business class.

"You just won the Superbowl what're you going to do next? - I'm going to Steakland!"

We arrived in the land of the rising sun just as dawn was creeping over the horizon.  After a quick stop through the Narita Airport customs (Tokyo's international airport) at 6am, we hopped on a shinkansen train bound for the formed imperial capital of Japan, Kyoto.  

The shinkansen trains were an experience in and of themselves, traveling at speeds around 180 mph and looking like they came out of the year 2080.  The Japan Rail Pass we purchased would become very handy, as it allowed us unlimited train use for the four days that we were in Japan.  

The ride was incredible smooth and the staff was very friendly making the Shinkansen trains a mode of transportation we would highly recommend.

Getting off the train in Kyoto was the first major culture shock of the trip.  With hundreds of people speeding past us, nearly every sign being in Japanese, and having only an English phonetic version of our hostel name and address written on a piece of paper, we were lost.  By some stroke of luck, our taxi driver turned out to be quite possibly the nicest man in all of Kyoto.  Through his broken English, he explained to us that it was easy to get around Kyoto.  We just had to think of it in the shape of a human body (which was the first thing that came to my mind when I saw a map of Kyoto...).  Apparently it didn't work very well for him either, because after 10 minutes it was clear he could not locate the hostel.  But, he did go above and beyond his call of duty as a taxi driver by sprinting out of the car in the pouring rain to chase down pedestrians in order to ask them for directions, as well as making several phone calls to his supervisor.  Eventually, someone had heard of BakPak Gion Hostel and the search was over.  Tired from our long travel day, we took a stroll through the former Imperial Palace and then called it a night.

Early the next morning we headed to the Kinkaju-Ji (The Temple of the Golden Pavillion).  

 We successfully navigated the Kyoto bus system and arrived at the temple.  The pavilion was built in 1397 and the two top stories are covered with pure gold leaf.  Set within a quintessential Japanese garden, the Kinkaju-Ji was quite the site to see.  Perhaps a little sun would have enhanced our viewing, but even in the rain we could feel the power of Buddha emanating from the structure’s bones.  After seeing the Imperial Palace, the Kinkaju-Ji, and few other shrines/castles along with way, we felt that our cultural duties had been fulfilled and began to focus on our real reason for going to Japan.

People flock to Japan for its rich culture and history.  They want to become engulfed in the ancient temples and shrines, the Tsujiki fish market, the cherry blossoms, Hello Kitty, and Pokemon.  But, if we are going to be brutally honest, what excited us most about Japan was Kobe Beef.  After spending no money on our travel day to Japan, and only about $10 each on our first day in Kyoto, our bankroll was finally on the same page as our stomachs and we were ready to indulge in the finest meat this world has to offer.   

Using our nifty JR passes, we hopped on the train and made the 50-minute ride from Kyoto to Kobe.  Our arrival in Kobe was quite similar to our arrival in Kyoto.  We had researched a few names of Kobe Beef restaurants, but had no idea where they were or how to get there.  This time there was no rain, so we took to the streets in search of the sacred beef.

After stumbling upon a few seemingly reputable Kobe Beef establishments, we saw a sign for “Steakland” with an arrow pointing down a long alleyway. 

As we wandered down this seedy stretch of road, prostitutes were just beginning to work their turf and there were several shady characters that surely would have mugged us had they been afforded the cover of darkness.  Lucky for us, we were crossing this territory at 4pm because of how excited we were to try Kobe’s most prized possession.  With no intention of actually eating at Steakland, we were more curious to see what could be behind its doors.  As the rickety elevator doors opened on the 6^th floor, we were utterly shocked.  Staring us in the face was neither a crack den, nor some sort of steak themed amusement park.  But rather, a shelf chocked full of awards, followed by a mahogany palace of beef, fit for the Emperor of Japan himself.

Steakland was everything we didn’t think it would be, and more.  With the giant eyes of the marble Kobe Cow statue at the center of the restaurant overseeing us, we sat down at the hibatchi table and began our journey to gastronomic nirvana.  Our own personal chef came out and cooked up a feast right in front of us.  There were no volcanoes made of onions or gimmicky knife tricks here.  This guy was a complete professional and meant strictly business.  At first, I was slightly hesitant after seeing the steak.   

Kobe beef is known for its intense marbling, and I will be the first to tell you I hate fat on my steak.  But the fat on Kobe Beef is not like that on other steaks.  It is not chewy, or rubbery, but rather it adds an explosion of flavor and then simply melts in your mouth.  The steak was prepared to perfection and was like nothing Alex or I had ever tasted.  Two or three chews is all that is necessary because the beef is so tender and soft.  Our Kobe Beef experience lived up to the hype, and feeling fully satisfied, we were back on a train to Kyoto.

The next morning we were back on the Shinkansin to spend the next day and a half in Tokyo.  All of our research had told us that the main attraction we had to see was the Tuna auctions at the Tsukiji Fish Market.  Only 120 people are allowed to witness these each day, and the tours start at 5:25am.  Naturally, we decided that the best course of action would be to stay up all night because the market operated on such an early schedule.  We had a quick lunch, 

where a lot of guesswork was used in terms of what we were ordering (as seen by the menu on the left), paid a visit to the Electric City, as well as a few other shrines in Tokyo, and then rested until we headed to Roppongi Hills for a late dinner.

                                                  

Roppongi Hills is the hip, up and coming, metropolitan area in Tokyo.  An Izakaya restaurant called Teyandei was our destination of choice.  Izakayas formed from sake shops that allowed their visitors to stay and drink.  They are known as being local places that have very good cheap eats, and a great atmosphere. 

Teyandei hit this to a T, and was the exact type of restaurant we had been searching for.  We had to take off our shoes upon entry, and make our way through the packed and vibrant bar area to our seats, which in very traditional manner consisted of a pillow on the floor.  Skewers of chicken heart, beef neck, beef skirt, chicken meatballs, and cheese filled our appetite and we washed them down with some good Japanese beer.  It was a great experience that truly made us feel like locals.

With public transportation shutting down at around 12:30AM, we had to quickly hustle to the subway in order to make it to Tsukiji.  Upon our arrival, there was nothing open except “Jonathan’s Restaurant.”  It was here that we made camp until the fish market opened.  Two hours of sleep, face down on a wooden table was just what the doctor prescribed, and when we awoke at 3:30am; it was time to get out of Jonathan’s.  Thinking we would wander down to the fish market to see if there was any activity, we were surprised to see that there was already a substantial line forming.  Had we went back to our hostel and then tried to make it to the fish market before opening, we surely would have been shut out of the Tuna auction like the hundreds of people that showed up after 4am. 

Once admitted at around 3:50am, we felt a bit like tuna ourselves, being contained in a small waiting room until 5:25 rolled around.  Making your way to the auction warehouse was a challenge itself, dodging the whizzing trucks and carts with absolutely no set traffic patterns.  Hundreds of gigantic iced tuna line the floors of this warehouse, and after inspections are complete the bells start ringing and the yells of auctioneers fill the warehouse, bouncing off every wall. 

 Following the auction and brief walk through the market we made our way to a side street three blocks away.  The local sushi joints had just received their morning shipments of fish from down the road and we indulged in the freshest sushi breakfast money could buy.

Japan was quite the cultural experience, and we enjoyed the time we spent there.  The weather was a bit cold, so we are excited to get back to the beach and head to Boracay in the Philippines tomorrow.  Peace Japan!